While many skincare ingredients get the spotlight for fighting acne or brightening skin, Azelaic Acid remains one of the most effective yet underrated. Derived from grains like barley, wheat, and rye, Azelaic Acid is a multi-functional ingredient with antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. It’s particularly effective at treating acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation without causing the irritation often associated with stronger treatments. In this blog, we’ll dive into the benefits of Azelaic Acid, how it works, and how to use it to address a variety of skin concerns.
What is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic Acid is a naturally occurring acid produced by yeast that lives on your skin. It’s also found in grains like barley and wheat, and is commonly used in skincare to treat a range of issues, including acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. What makes Azelaic Acid unique is that it’s gentle on the skin, making it suitable for all skin types—even those with sensitive skin.
Azelaic Acid works by inhibiting the growth of acne-causing bacteria, reducing inflammation, and accelerating skin cell turnover, which helps to prevent clogged pores and uneven skin tone.
The Benefits of Azelaic Acid in Skincare
1. Treats Acne and Prevents Breakouts
Azelaic Acid is a powerful weapon against acne because it fights the root cause—bacteria. Its antibacterial properties help to kill the bacteria that contribute to acne, while its anti-inflammatory effects reduce redness and swelling associated with breakouts. Unlike other acne treatments that can be harsh and drying, Azelaic Acid is gentle enough for long-term use and won’t strip the skin of moisture.
2. Reduces Hyperpigmentation and Dark Spots
Azelaic Acid is also a potent brightening agent that works to fade hyperpigmentation, melasma, and post-inflammatory dark spots left behind by acne. It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for melanin production. By preventing excess melanin, Azelaic Acid helps to even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots over time.
3. Soothes Rosacea and Reduces Redness
For people with rosacea, Azelaic Acid is one of the most effective treatments for reducing redness, swelling, and visible blood vessels. Its anti-inflammatory properties calm the skin and reduce irritation, making it a great option for people with rosacea or highly sensitive skin.
4. Unclogs Pores and Smooths Skin Texture
Azelaic Acid helps to unclog pores and prevent future blockages by promoting skin cell turnover. This process ensures that dead skin cells are exfoliated, reducing the likelihood of clogged pores and breakouts. Over time, regular use of Azelaic Acid can help smooth out rough, uneven texture and keep the skin looking clear and refined.
5. Gentle on Sensitive Skin
Unlike stronger acids or retinoids, Azelaic Acid is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin. It doesn’t cause the same level of irritation, dryness, or peeling that other acne-fighting ingredients like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid can cause. This makes it an ideal option for those looking for effective results without harsh side effects.
How Azelaic Acid Works in Skincare
Azelaic Acid works by targeting three key areas of skin concern: acne, pigmentation, and inflammation. For acne, it inhibits the growth of bacteria and promotes exfoliation to prevent clogged pores. For hyperpigmentation, it reduces melanin production to fade dark spots and even out skin tone. Its anti-inflammatory properties also help soothe redness and irritation, making it particularly effective for rosacea.
Unlike many other acids, Azelaic Acid doesn’t aggressively strip the skin but works more gently to reduce skin concerns over time. It’s effective enough to deliver noticeable improvements without the risk of over-exfoliation or irritation, making it a versatile ingredient for a wide range of skin types.
How to Use Azelaic Acid in Your Skincare Routine
1. Choose the Right Product
Azelaic Acid is available in various forms, including creams, gels, and serums. Over-the-counter products typically contain concentrations of 10%, while prescription-strength Azelaic Acid can be as high as 15% to 20%. If you’re new to this ingredient, start with a lower concentration and work your way up based on how your skin responds.
- Tip: Azelaic Acid can be used in both your morning and evening routine, but make sure to wear sunscreen during the day, as it can increase sun sensitivity.
2. Apply After Cleansing
To incorporate Azelaic Acid into your routine, apply it after cleansing and toning but before moisturizing. You can apply a thin layer of Azelaic Acid serum or cream to your face, focusing on areas where you have acne, hyperpigmentation, or redness. Once it has fully absorbed, follow up with your moisturizer and sunscreen if used in the morning.
- AM Routine: Cleanse → Azelaic Acid Serum/Cream → Moisturizer → Sunscreen
- PM Routine: Cleanse → Azelaic Acid Serum/Cream → Moisturizer
3. Use with Other Active Ingredients
Azelaic Acid pairs well with other active ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides to boost hydration and repair the skin barrier. However, avoid combining it with strong exfoliants like retinoids or alpha-hydroxy acids in the same routine, as this could cause irritation.
You can alternate Azelaic Acid with retinoids or exfoliating acids on different days to maximize their benefits without overwhelming the skin.
4. Start Slowly and Build Up
If you have sensitive skin or are new to Azelaic Acid, it’s best to start slowly by using it a few times a week. As your skin builds tolerance, you can increase the frequency to daily use. Azelaic Acid is gentle enough for long-term use and can be incorporated into your routine year-round for ongoing benefits.
Who Should Use Azelaic Acid?
1. Acne-Prone Skin
Azelaic Acid is an excellent treatment for people who struggle with acne, as it works to unclog pores, kill acne-causing bacteria, and reduce inflammation. It’s a great alternative to harsher acne treatments that can irritate the skin.
2. Hyperpigmentation and Dark Spots
If you’re dealing with post-acne marks, sunspots, or melasma, Azelaic Acid’s ability to inhibit melanin production makes it a powerful tool for fading hyperpigmentation. It’s gentle enough for people with sensitive skin who can’t tolerate more aggressive brightening ingredients like hydroquinone.
3. People with Rosacea
Azelaic Acid is one of the most effective ingredients for calming rosacea and reducing redness. Its anti-inflammatory properties help to minimize the visible blood vessels and bumps associated with rosacea, while soothing the skin.
4. Sensitive Skin Types
For people with sensitive skin, Azelaic Acid is a great alternative to stronger acids or retinoids that may cause irritation. Its gentle yet effective nature makes it suitable for long-term use without causing damage or dryness.
Azelaic Acid vs. Other Acids: How Do They Compare?
- Azelaic Acid vs. Salicylic Acid: Both Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid treat acne, but Azelaic Acid is gentler and better suited for sensitive skin. Salicylic Acid is stronger and more focused on exfoliation, making it ideal for oily, acne-prone skin.
- Azelaic Acid vs. Glycolic Acid: Glycolic Acid is a stronger exfoliant, while Azelaic Acid is better for treating pigmentation and inflammation without the risk of irritation. Glycolic Acid is often too harsh for sensitive skin, while Azelaic Acid offers similar benefits more gently.
- Azelaic Acid vs. Retinoids: Retinoids promote cell turnover and fight aging, but can be harsh and cause peeling. Azelaic Acid is gentler and more focused on acne, rosacea, and pigmentation without the associated side effects of retinoids.
Final Thoughts
Azelaic Acid is a versatile and gentle ingredient that can address multiple skin concerns, including acne, hyperpigmentation, and rosacea. Its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and brightening properties make it a must-have for anyone seeking clearer, more even-toned skin without irritation. Whether you’re dealing with sensitive skin, stubborn dark spots, or redness, Azelaic Acid offers a balanced approach that works well with other ingredients and is suitable for long-term use. By incorporating it into your skincare routine, you can enjoy the benefits of clearer, calmer, and more radiant skin.
FAQ’s
1. What does Azelaic Acid do for the skin?
This ingredient helps improve skin health by providing hydration, reducing inflammation, and improving overall skin texture.
2. Can Azelaic Acid cause purging?
This ingredient is generally well-tolerated and does not cause purging. It is suitable for most skin types.
3. Is Azelaic Acid safe to use daily?
Yes, Azelaic Acid is safe for daily use, but it is always recommended to follow the product instructions or consult a dermatologist.
4. Can Azelaic Acid be used with retinol?
Yes, Azelaic Acid can be used in conjunction with retinol to provide hydration and soothe the skin.
5. Is Azelaic Acid good for acne?
This ingredient is beneficial for acne-prone skin as it helps to reduce inflammation and control oil production.
6. Does Azelaic Acid work on oily skin?
Yes, Azelaic Acid works well for oily skin types because it hydrates without adding excess oil.
7. Does Azelaic Acid brighten the skin?
This ingredient helps improve skin radiance by reducing pigmentation and evening out skin tone.
8. Can Azelaic Acid be used with Vitamin C?
Yes, Azelaic Acid pairs well with Vitamin C, enhancing the overall brightening and antioxidant benefits.
9. Is Azelaic Acid suitable for sensitive skin?
This ingredient is gentle and generally safe for sensitive skin. However, it's important to patch test.
10. What concentration of Azelaic Acid should be used?
The ideal concentration depends on the formulation, but common usage ranges from 1% to 10% depending on the ingredient.
11. How long does it take to see results?
Results from using Azelaic Acid typically appear within a few weeks, depending on consistent usage and individual skin types.
12. Can Azelaic Acid be used during pregnancy?
Consult with a healthcare provider before using Azelaic Acid during pregnancy, as safety can vary.
13. Does Azelaic Acid help with wrinkles?
Yes, Azelaic Acid can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles with consistent use over time.
14. How should Azelaic Acid be stored?
Store Azelaic Acid in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its efficacy.
15. What skin types can benefit from Azelaic Acid?
This ingredient is suitable for all skin types, including dry, oily, and combination skin.
16. Can Azelaic Acid be used with AHA/BHA acids?
Yes, but it is recommended to use them in alternate routines or consult a dermatologist.
17. Is Azelaic Acid good for anti-aging?
This ingredient has anti-aging properties that improve the skin’s texture and elasticity over time.
18. Can Azelaic Acid be layered with moisturizers?
Yes, Azelaic Acid can be layered with moisturizers to lock in hydration.
19. Is it safe to use Azelaic Acid under the eyes?
Yes, Azelaic Acid is generally safe to use under the eyes, but avoid direct contact with the eyes.
20. How should Azelaic Acid be applied?
Apply Azelaic Acid on clean skin, typically before heavier creams or oils, for maximum absorption.
21. Can Azelaic Acid help with hyperpigmentation?
This ingredient can help reduce hyperpigmentation by promoting cell turnover and improving skin tone.
22. How often should Azelaic Acid be applied?
It can be applied once or twice daily, depending on skin tolerance and product instructions.
23. Can Azelaic Acid be used in the morning and evening?
Yes, Azelaic Acid can typically be used both in the morning and evening, though some may prefer evening use.
24. Can Azelaic Acid irritate the skin?
This ingredient is generally non-irritating, but sensitive skin types should patch test before using.
25. Can Azelaic Acid be combined with sunscreen?
Yes, Azelaic Acid works well with sunscreen, and it's important to apply sunscreen daily when using active ingredients.